A Beginners Guide To How Pearls Are Made
For more than two millennia, pearls have been a part of history. From an ancient pearl discovered in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess dating to 420 BC, to treasures exchanged between kingdoms across the seas, pearls have long been woven into tales of adventure, romance, and magic.
Known as the “Queen of Gems”, the pearl is the only gemstone that needs a living organism to be produced. Unlike mined stones, pearls are born in water. When an irritant enters an oyster or mussel, the mollusk protects itself by coating the intruder in layers of nacre, the same iridescent material that lines its shell. Over months to years, layers build up into a luminous sphere or organic shape whose glow comes from the nacre reflecting and scattering light. Its natural origin makes each pearl unique in overtone, surface, and form, giving them an understated radiance that other gems try to imitate but rarely match. 
Many people hear the phrase cultured pearl and assume it must be a lesser version of a natural pearl. In reality, the opposite is true. A cultured pearl is created through the very same remarkable process that produces a natural pearl. The only difference lies in how the journey begins. In nature, an irritant finds its way into an oyster by chance; in pearl farming, that first step is carefully introduced by human intervention. Everything that follows—the nacre, the luster, the radiance—is entirely the oyster’s own creation. The cultured pearl process has allowed for more sustainability in pearl jewelry production.
Pearls Through The Eras
The 15th to 16th centuries became known as the “Pearl Age” due to the Spanish discovering natural pearls on the banks of Central and South America. With trade routes rapidly opening during this time, Europe was flooded with pearls, where artists were making them into beautiful fashion statements for royals. They would be found intricately woven into hair, draped over heavy silk garments, and layered along the necklines of nobility. They were the ultimate symbol of wealth, purity, and power.
During the Georgian (1714-1837) and Victorian (1837-1901) periods, seed pearls (tiny pearls ranging from 1mm-2mm) became widely used because of their accessibility and price point. This allowed the middle class to start adorning themselves in pearls as well. Seed pearls were used extensively in mourning jewelry to symbolize tears. They would also often accompany colored gemstones, making up halos for rubies and sapphires in rings.
The Edwardian Era (1901-1910) was all about the ultra-feminine and ethereal designs. They often used natural baroque pearls to compliment this lighter style. Lavalier and festoon necklaces were very popular during this time, often showcasing dangling baroque pearls or diamonds.
Cultured pearls became more commercial during the roaring twenties (Art Deco 1920s-1930s) thanks to cultured pearl farming in Japan. Coco Chanel made long strands of pearls very popular amongst flapper girls to go along with their drop-waste dresses.
By the Mid-Century, pearls experienced a revival thanks to the rise in perfectly uniform and brilliant luster of saltwater cultured pearls. Women made pearl stud earrings and single-strand necklaces a wardrobe staple. Fashion icon of the time, Jackie Kennedy, famously said that “pearls are always appropriate”.
A Pearl Renaissance
Pearls are currently making a major comeback in fashion. Leaning into a more “soft and hard” look, abstract shaped “soft” pearls are being paired with heavy industrial “hard” metals. Layering a vintage single strand with a thick cuban curb chain would definitely make a perfect pairing for the summer.
Pearls are the ultimate constant in jewelry. They have adapted with the different trends and seasons seamlessly. Formed by nature and treasured for centuries, pearls will always be a fixture in fashion. They hold stories and beauty that will be passed down and cherished for another two millennia.
